“Old tank syndrome” is a tank with: Low KH (80); Low pH (< 6.5, or yellow to yellow green on the API pH test kit); High nitrate (>80); High ammonia readings (>4); This article tells you what to do when your fish are dying!


“Old tank syndrome” is a tank with: Low KH (80); Low pH (< 6.5, or yellow to yellow green on the API pH test kit); High nitrate (>80); High ammonia readings (>4); This article tells you what to do when your fish are dying!

Heavy Stocked Maintenance: ONLY if one has very heavily stocked aquarium with only moderate amounts of biofiltration one should read on. This analysis is very long and boring.

There are a host of YouTube videos emphasizing that it is essential to “deep clean” and “deep vacuum” the substrate of an aquarium at least once a week. We do NOT recommend doing this.

A continuous drip water change system uses permanent plumbing to continuously and automatically change the water in one or more aquariums via a 24/7 drip.

Aquarium Maintenance can be a very simple topic or a very complex topic, depending on the aquarium stocking ratio.

Sick Tank Syndrome can occur even when the water parameters seem to be perfect. Invariably they will have “dull” or slightly cloudy water. This article explains what it is and how to treat it!

Diseases are generally not a problem in aquariums which have over-filtered, crystal clear, bacteria-free water.

Ich is one of the most common fish diseases. This article will provide the basic knowledge on how to identify and treat Ich as well as common myths!

This is a very long and boring discussion of the very charged and opinionated topic of proper stocking of the aquarium. This article tackles the problem from a scientific viewpoint.

If one is new to fishkeeping, stocking is best looked at not by numbers but rather by water clarity. Slowly add some fish. Then see how it goes. Keep looking down the length of the tank and judging how clear the water is.